{"id":335,"date":"2021-09-12T15:15:28","date_gmt":"2021-09-12T15:15:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/localhost\/rv10ca\/?page_id=335"},"modified":"2021-12-20T18:16:27","modified_gmt":"2021-12-20T18:16:27","slug":"tools-that-make-life-easier","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/localhost\/rv10ca\/tools-that-make-life-easier\/","title":{"rendered":"Tools That Make Life Easier"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Bucking Bars<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Here are the three bucking bars you will need. The tungsten bucking bar will be used 99.9% of the time. Its density (weight) is what makes it so effective when riveting. There are different shapes for the tungsten bar but I found the rectangular on quite functional. The steel bucking bar has a “foot” for getting into difficult spots. The long steel bucking bar is used for the elevators. Get or borrow one. Do not try to do without. Note that I put a red box on the bar as well as a red line on the end. When The red line matches the elevator trailing edge and you can see the red box through the rivet hole, you will know you are aligned correctly for riveting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are a ton of other bucking bar shapes you can get. And they will sit in your tool box never used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n DTDT2 Dimpler Spotting Laser<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n CleavelandTool<\/a> sells a cross hair laser that you can use to spot the holes when dimpling. It makes finding the male set quick and easy. There are others that work equally well but this is the one I use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Trailing Edge Wedge Countersink<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Trailing edge wedges need to be countersunk perpendicular to the wedge surface. However the wedge shape makes this difficult to accomplish. CleavelandTool.Com<\/a> sells a wedge holder that makes this operation fast and simple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n\n\n\n Carbide Cutter<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n I recently had to cut two 2″ holes in a tail cone bulkhead to accommodate air flanges feeding air into the overhead console in the cabin. To roughly cut the holes, I drilled a perimeter of holes and then cut the centers out. Normally I would have used files etc to clean up the hole. In this case I used a carbide cutter attached to a die grinder to remove all the extraneous material. It took all of 30 seconds to clean up the hold. I then used a deburring tool to remove the burrs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A Third Hand<\/strong> Tools<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure><\/li>
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